Wow. What a range of ups and downs. Literally with the terrain as well as my emotional state. These mountains have provided the hardest mental and physical challenge yet on the trail. The steep ascents and descents challenged my body and the inclimate weather throughout most of my time in here challenged my mind. Like my previous post said, a whole lot of my time hiking these majestic peaks was done in the clouds and later in the rain. I climbed Mt. Washington in 35 degree, 30mph, driving rain and received no views. While unfortunate, I really felt like a mountaineer, braving the elements to reach the summit.
After another bad day descending into Pinkham Notch (my FB friends probably saw my post whining about my day) I needed a break. I hitched about 14 miles to a hostel in Gorham where I could clean and dry my clothes/shoes, take a shower, and sleep in a warm bed. That nero day did me wonders and sure enough, the rest of the time in the whites, I had fantastic weather. I'm talking about perfect, fall hiking weather. Really a 180 degree change from the prior week and it really aided in my mental state. The weather out here really affects my mood, much more so than in the real world. Probably because I'm outside 100% of the time.
Anyway, the last couple days have been fantastic. Met some more cool thru hikers going north, hung out with some awesome hut workers in Cartner Notch, and caught some fantastic vistas of the surrounding area while atop Wildcat. Oh and I loved the climbing at Wildcat. Ascending from Pinkahm Notch provided some fantastic hand over hand climbing.
So now through the White Mountains and heading onto Maine. No more state crossings after this one. Except to go back home. WooHoo!
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
White Mountains- day 5
Last night I was able to do a "work for stay" at an AMC operated hut, located right below Mt Washington. Until about 7pm yesterday, I was feeling slightly disappointed with my white mt experience. That all changed at around 7 when I came to a stunning realization. More on that in a second.
The whites have kicked my butt so far. I came in here thinking I was going to blaze this place up. I thought, "I'm a thru hiker knocking out 20+ mile days, usually hiking 3mph - this should be cake." Well cake is NOT what it is and humbling is.
The terrain has been steep, rugged and challenging. On more than one occasion I have looked at the terrain that lay ahead and thought there was no way to get by. Slippery, sheer faced rock descents, hand over hand rock climbing, and wet, creek-like trails have slowed our pace significantly.
The weather has also not been on our side. Our day 1 climb of Mt Moosilauke yielded some views, however since then, it's been all in the clouds. And the rain. Oh the rain. Hiking above tree line in cold, windy rain chills you to the bone. We go to sleep wet and cold. We wake up the same way. Not since early on in Tennessee have I considered staying in my sleeping bag all day instead of getting out and hiking.
So it's been hard. But I also knew it would. And I've been trying (successfully) to stay positive. Hell, as we departed a shelter the other morning, with rain dropping on our heads, I thought it best to sing to my dear friend dr pepper, to raise both our spirits. He astutely informed me I wouldn't be on broadway anytime soon.
Later in the day, the rain lifted and we got a few nice views of the surrounding area. But around 7pm is when it hit me.
High up in the whites, in the shadow of Mt Washington, I saw the most amazing sunset these eyes have ever peered upon. It was simply sensational, breathtaking, and trying to capture it's essence in either words or through photography would be fruitless. It was a once in a lifetime event, just as every sunset is.
And as I gazed west, enamored and yet without thought, it hit me like a ton of bricks. As great as this sunset was, even if I wasn't able to experience it, I should have nothing but joy and positive thoughts about my experience in the whites so far. Yeah, the views are spectacular and I would love to see them, but that isn't why I'm hiking. It's the cold and the rain and the difficulty. It's the journey and the challenge and the birds singing in the trees. It's this whole wild experience, bundled up into what has been the greatest adventure of my life. I realized at that moment that sometimes, the reasons you think you are doing something aren't necessarily such. Sometimes, you don't hike to the top of a mountain for the view. Sometimes you hike to the top of a mountain to hike. And that is good.
The whites have kicked my butt so far. I came in here thinking I was going to blaze this place up. I thought, "I'm a thru hiker knocking out 20+ mile days, usually hiking 3mph - this should be cake." Well cake is NOT what it is and humbling is.
The terrain has been steep, rugged and challenging. On more than one occasion I have looked at the terrain that lay ahead and thought there was no way to get by. Slippery, sheer faced rock descents, hand over hand rock climbing, and wet, creek-like trails have slowed our pace significantly.
The weather has also not been on our side. Our day 1 climb of Mt Moosilauke yielded some views, however since then, it's been all in the clouds. And the rain. Oh the rain. Hiking above tree line in cold, windy rain chills you to the bone. We go to sleep wet and cold. We wake up the same way. Not since early on in Tennessee have I considered staying in my sleeping bag all day instead of getting out and hiking.
So it's been hard. But I also knew it would. And I've been trying (successfully) to stay positive. Hell, as we departed a shelter the other morning, with rain dropping on our heads, I thought it best to sing to my dear friend dr pepper, to raise both our spirits. He astutely informed me I wouldn't be on broadway anytime soon.
Later in the day, the rain lifted and we got a few nice views of the surrounding area. But around 7pm is when it hit me.
High up in the whites, in the shadow of Mt Washington, I saw the most amazing sunset these eyes have ever peered upon. It was simply sensational, breathtaking, and trying to capture it's essence in either words or through photography would be fruitless. It was a once in a lifetime event, just as every sunset is.
And as I gazed west, enamored and yet without thought, it hit me like a ton of bricks. As great as this sunset was, even if I wasn't able to experience it, I should have nothing but joy and positive thoughts about my experience in the whites so far. Yeah, the views are spectacular and I would love to see them, but that isn't why I'm hiking. It's the cold and the rain and the difficulty. It's the journey and the challenge and the birds singing in the trees. It's this whole wild experience, bundled up into what has been the greatest adventure of my life. I realized at that moment that sometimes, the reasons you think you are doing something aren't necessarily such. Sometimes, you don't hike to the top of a mountain for the view. Sometimes you hike to the top of a mountain to hike. And that is good.
Thursday, September 1, 2011
The Whites
Since day one on the trail I have looked forward to hiking in the White Mountains. The hype, the terrain, and the views are all sky-high. It was during my first backpacking trip with Hybrid, all the way back in 2008, that I first had thoughts of trying to hike the AT, while we tromped though the Pemigawasset Wilderness, located in the Whites. You could say that this is the area where I fell in love with the backpacking thing.
Tomorrow morning, bright and early, I climb Mt. Moosilauke and into the White Mountains. The past few weeks have been grueling, challenging (both mentally and physically) and amazing all in one. I expect all of that to be heightened in this next 8-10 day jaunt through these mountains. It is said that hiking more than 10 miles a day is a difficult task here so the 100 mile stretch that goes through the whites should take some time. But man, I seriously can't wait to get up there.
Hopefully I'll have good service up there and can post some pictures, but lately the service has been sparse so not too sure. Anyway - I'll keep ya posted!
Tomorrow morning, bright and early, I climb Mt. Moosilauke and into the White Mountains. The past few weeks have been grueling, challenging (both mentally and physically) and amazing all in one. I expect all of that to be heightened in this next 8-10 day jaunt through these mountains. It is said that hiking more than 10 miles a day is a difficult task here so the 100 mile stretch that goes through the whites should take some time. But man, I seriously can't wait to get up there.
Hopefully I'll have good service up there and can post some pictures, but lately the service has been sparse so not too sure. Anyway - I'll keep ya posted!
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Hurricanes, Vermont, and More
Hi all,
I attempted many posts while in Vermont, but alas, the cell service was rare. Here is a quick rundown of my time in VT:
-Vermont is muddy. Very muddy. And that is Pre-Hurricane
-Vermont is beautiful. Holy crap is this a lovely state. I want to live here one day for sure
-While climbing Stratton Mountain, I got walloped with an intense, isolated thunderstorm, near the peak. I learned many valuable life lessons that day. The most important - Preparation is the key to success of any kind
-The terrain, while beautiful, has included many more climbs and difficult terrain. Only a taste of what lies ahead...
-I climbed to the top of Killington Peak and then rode the Gondola down to the lodge for lunch! Pretty cool experience since I grew up skiing there. Unfortunately that lodge did not fare so well apparently during the storm...-The hurricane was a nasty one as everyone now knows. Dr P and I came up with 5 plans for the hurricane. The one we went with was staying in a barn in Woodstock, Vermont, at the home of Daniel Quinn. He has a brook in his backyard that became a flooded, raging river, rising many feet. Pretty scary, but also an awesome display of Mother Nature's power. I have some photos I must upload when I have a chance (and the internet service)
-I hate hornets. I was stung by another one yesterday and I no longer have a left ankle. Its just a large, swollen stump. Bastard bees!
-Finally - I made it to New Hampshire!! Crossed the Connecticut River and now in the same state as the White Mountains. Can't wait to make it there!!
I'll do my best to post more...its all subject to my internet service on the phone. Hope you all stayed safe during the storm.
-Mojo
I attempted many posts while in Vermont, but alas, the cell service was rare. Here is a quick rundown of my time in VT:
-Vermont is muddy. Very muddy. And that is Pre-Hurricane
-Vermont is beautiful. Holy crap is this a lovely state. I want to live here one day for sure
-While climbing Stratton Mountain, I got walloped with an intense, isolated thunderstorm, near the peak. I learned many valuable life lessons that day. The most important - Preparation is the key to success of any kind
-The terrain, while beautiful, has included many more climbs and difficult terrain. Only a taste of what lies ahead...
-I climbed to the top of Killington Peak and then rode the Gondola down to the lodge for lunch! Pretty cool experience since I grew up skiing there. Unfortunately that lodge did not fare so well apparently during the storm...-The hurricane was a nasty one as everyone now knows. Dr P and I came up with 5 plans for the hurricane. The one we went with was staying in a barn in Woodstock, Vermont, at the home of Daniel Quinn. He has a brook in his backyard that became a flooded, raging river, rising many feet. Pretty scary, but also an awesome display of Mother Nature's power. I have some photos I must upload when I have a chance (and the internet service)
-I hate hornets. I was stung by another one yesterday and I no longer have a left ankle. Its just a large, swollen stump. Bastard bees!
-Finally - I made it to New Hampshire!! Crossed the Connecticut River and now in the same state as the White Mountains. Can't wait to make it there!!
I'll do my best to post more...its all subject to my internet service on the phone. Hope you all stayed safe during the storm.
-Mojo
Saturday, August 20, 2011
More trail love in Adams, MA
Dr P and I waited patiently outside of the Cheshire post office. It was finally a beautiful day and we had no qualms about sitting around in the sun and shade of the new little town we had just walked into. We were waiting because my friend and former WTAS boss, Shamus was on his way out from Boston to pick us up and take us to his childhood home for the night. Shamus had made this offer to stay at the family home in Adams a while back, before I had even started the trail. At the time, I didn't want to jinx myself and say yes for sure (in fear that I might not even make it to Adams, MA)but now, here we were. Over 1500 miles in the book. We had hiked a good deal these past weeks and a little rest (on some grass no less!) while we waited felt good.
Shamus pulled up in his devilishly good looking yellow sportscar. I guess I have to eat my prior words about not getting a ride from people in nice cars. In fact, I might go as far to say that Dr Pepper and I are the only thru hikers to receive a ride in a Porsche this year.
We arrived to the McBride residence (a house that has been in the family since the 19th century) and were greeted so warmly, immediately, by Shamus' parents, Ruth and Tony. It was clear that we were welcomed guests into their home and I can't tell you just how good that makes us hikers feel, since we often time feel a burden on people.
Ruth and Tony filled us up with some DELICIOUS meat lasagna, garlic bread, and fresh veggies. Talk about carb re-fill and carbo-loadng! The food was fantastic and we were even treated with their next door neighbor coming over with some $5 trail magic! Her son hiked the trail in 1999 and she wanted to pay it forward to us, just like so many had done for her son. She clearly got "it".
After dinner, Shamus took us for a little tour around the town he grew up in. Beautiful country out in these parts. Very green and lush. We also had a great view of the next day's major challenge - climbing Mt. Greylock - which loomed over the towns below, over 3,000 feet in the air.
Our time with the McBride's was short, but definitely sweet. They welcomed us into their home and treated us like family. We feel so very lucky to have met Ruth and Tony and are eternally grateful for Shamus' help. I know I have said this before, but it bears repeating. This trail has been special to me for so many reasons, but the emerging storyline is just how kind and generous your fellow American can be. Love, love, love this trail!
Shamus pulled up in his devilishly good looking yellow sportscar. I guess I have to eat my prior words about not getting a ride from people in nice cars. In fact, I might go as far to say that Dr Pepper and I are the only thru hikers to receive a ride in a Porsche this year.
We arrived to the McBride residence (a house that has been in the family since the 19th century) and were greeted so warmly, immediately, by Shamus' parents, Ruth and Tony. It was clear that we were welcomed guests into their home and I can't tell you just how good that makes us hikers feel, since we often time feel a burden on people.
Ruth and Tony filled us up with some DELICIOUS meat lasagna, garlic bread, and fresh veggies. Talk about carb re-fill and carbo-loadng! The food was fantastic and we were even treated with their next door neighbor coming over with some $5 trail magic! Her son hiked the trail in 1999 and she wanted to pay it forward to us, just like so many had done for her son. She clearly got "it".
After dinner, Shamus took us for a little tour around the town he grew up in. Beautiful country out in these parts. Very green and lush. We also had a great view of the next day's major challenge - climbing Mt. Greylock - which loomed over the towns below, over 3,000 feet in the air.
Our time with the McBride's was short, but definitely sweet. They welcomed us into their home and treated us like family. We feel so very lucky to have met Ruth and Tony and are eternally grateful for Shamus' help. I know I have said this before, but it bears repeating. This trail has been special to me for so many reasons, but the emerging storyline is just how kind and generous your fellow American can be. Love, love, love this trail!
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
The Bird Cage
"You have to go to the bird cage. You just have to."
For the past couple weeks, I have heard these words from hikers going southbound to Georgia. They all spoke so highly of this place called the bird cage that I was becoming suspicious and thought there might be a southbounder conspiracy to trick northbounders into going to some weird, creepo place. Dr p and I were wondering if we were walking into a "Hostel" situation.
"Just walk to the shell station in Dalton. The kid at the desk will see you and call Rob. He'll come and get you."
What in sam hell?! Really? Thats how we get to this place? Well, what the heck. This trail is all about new experiences. Why not?
We hiked 22 miles to get to Dalton and try this bird cage we kept hearing about. We get to the shell station and the kid pumping gas looks at us and asks "You want the bird cage?"
"Yeah" we reply.
"Hold on, I'll call rob" says the kid.
Dr pepper and I lean against the gas station window, munching on trail mix as we sorta kinda nervously wait for rob. Soon enough a van pulls up. No rob. It's Nancy.
Cigarette in hand, Nancy rolls down the mini van passenger window, smiles, and says, "hey hikers! What's your names??" Nancy gave off an immediate warmth and I could tell this was not going to be a scenario I needed to be worried about. Dr pepper and I jumped in the van and we drove off, heading to the bird cage.
On the drive over, Nancy gave us a little background about herself as well as on rob, and the bird cage. Rob has been running this little hiker helpout operation for over a decade. We arrived at the house and met Rob, an older guy with a quick smile and a friendly hand shake.
"We're just about to do a load of laundry if you want to throw your dirty clothes in" he says. "And there are some clean clothes in the other room for you to wear in the meantime. The shower is over there. Fresh towels are on the shelf."
There were about 10 other hikers hanging around as well. Some I recognized, some I didn't. Some northbound, some south. I showered up and threw my clothes in the laundry. We sat around and talked with Nancy, Rob and some of the other hikers. The atmosphere was very comfortable and felt like at home. A great feeling, especially since the last 3 days have been cold and rainy.
At 7 Rob and Nancy took a bunch of us over to the old country buffet. The hungry hikers filled up on plate after plate. Earlier I weighed in at 145 lbs, 20 below what I started at, so I put down 4 plates myself. I think dr p did the same. Afterwards we came came back to the bird cage and relaxed some more. We all watched the film, boondock saints as we digested.
There are some hikers that spent 4 or 5 days here. This place has an awesome vibe and I feel right at home. If I wasn't on a deadline, I might stay a couple days. For me, it's just the night. But I feel so fortunate to have found this place and met these wonderful people. Rob and Nancy welcomed us into their home, treated us like family, and asked for nothing in return. Their hospitality has been second to none and I can't wait to send them a postcard from atop mt katahdin. Truly a special experience with special people.
Rob and Nancy
Dr pepper, at our sleeping quarters
Bird cage!
Fellow Nobos, snags and indy
Hangin out in the kitchen
For the past couple weeks, I have heard these words from hikers going southbound to Georgia. They all spoke so highly of this place called the bird cage that I was becoming suspicious and thought there might be a southbounder conspiracy to trick northbounders into going to some weird, creepo place. Dr p and I were wondering if we were walking into a "Hostel" situation.
"Just walk to the shell station in Dalton. The kid at the desk will see you and call Rob. He'll come and get you."
What in sam hell?! Really? Thats how we get to this place? Well, what the heck. This trail is all about new experiences. Why not?
We hiked 22 miles to get to Dalton and try this bird cage we kept hearing about. We get to the shell station and the kid pumping gas looks at us and asks "You want the bird cage?"
"Yeah" we reply.
"Hold on, I'll call rob" says the kid.
Dr pepper and I lean against the gas station window, munching on trail mix as we sorta kinda nervously wait for rob. Soon enough a van pulls up. No rob. It's Nancy.
Cigarette in hand, Nancy rolls down the mini van passenger window, smiles, and says, "hey hikers! What's your names??" Nancy gave off an immediate warmth and I could tell this was not going to be a scenario I needed to be worried about. Dr pepper and I jumped in the van and we drove off, heading to the bird cage.
On the drive over, Nancy gave us a little background about herself as well as on rob, and the bird cage. Rob has been running this little hiker helpout operation for over a decade. We arrived at the house and met Rob, an older guy with a quick smile and a friendly hand shake.
"We're just about to do a load of laundry if you want to throw your dirty clothes in" he says. "And there are some clean clothes in the other room for you to wear in the meantime. The shower is over there. Fresh towels are on the shelf."
There were about 10 other hikers hanging around as well. Some I recognized, some I didn't. Some northbound, some south. I showered up and threw my clothes in the laundry. We sat around and talked with Nancy, Rob and some of the other hikers. The atmosphere was very comfortable and felt like at home. A great feeling, especially since the last 3 days have been cold and rainy.
At 7 Rob and Nancy took a bunch of us over to the old country buffet. The hungry hikers filled up on plate after plate. Earlier I weighed in at 145 lbs, 20 below what I started at, so I put down 4 plates myself. I think dr p did the same. Afterwards we came came back to the bird cage and relaxed some more. We all watched the film, boondock saints as we digested.
There are some hikers that spent 4 or 5 days here. This place has an awesome vibe and I feel right at home. If I wasn't on a deadline, I might stay a couple days. For me, it's just the night. But I feel so fortunate to have found this place and met these wonderful people. Rob and Nancy welcomed us into their home, treated us like family, and asked for nothing in return. Their hospitality has been second to none and I can't wait to send them a postcard from atop mt katahdin. Truly a special experience with special people.
Rob and Nancy
Dr pepper, at our sleeping quarters
Bird cage!
Fellow Nobos, snags and indy
Hangin out in the kitchen
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Some updates
Since leaving hybrid back in bear mtn, NY, I have been hiking with dr pepper, his German friend he met in VA. Dr p and I have been making great miles and having a blast out here. He is a funny guy and I enjoy hiking with him very much. It also helps that he is a marathon runner (26 marathons- wow!) and he can go the extra distances with me each day.
Connecticut has come and gone and we are now hiking through the Berkshires in Massachusetts. I can't believe I lived in this state for 7 years and never made my way out here. The trail is beautiful and the towns are quite nice. Picked up some pizza in great barrington the other night with dr p and fellow hikers Alex and spikey. Such a quaint little town. I'll have to remember to come back for another visit. Thanks to spikey for the coronas!
Caught a great sunrise too the other morning from the riga shelter, just before the MA-CT border. I don't particularly love waking up before 6, but I'll oblige for a sunrise. I'll post some photos I took when I have better service.
Finally, dr pepper and i successfully outran the impending storm that came barreling up the east coast today. We had resigned ourselves to getting wet but we were pleasantly surprised when we made it to the shelter before the storm hit. I write this from the comfort of the drafty, dirty shelter, but hey, we are dry! Tomorrow might be a different story though.
Night!
Connecticut has come and gone and we are now hiking through the Berkshires in Massachusetts. I can't believe I lived in this state for 7 years and never made my way out here. The trail is beautiful and the towns are quite nice. Picked up some pizza in great barrington the other night with dr p and fellow hikers Alex and spikey. Such a quaint little town. I'll have to remember to come back for another visit. Thanks to spikey for the coronas!
Caught a great sunrise too the other morning from the riga shelter, just before the MA-CT border. I don't particularly love waking up before 6, but I'll oblige for a sunrise. I'll post some photos I took when I have better service.
Finally, dr pepper and i successfully outran the impending storm that came barreling up the east coast today. We had resigned ourselves to getting wet but we were pleasantly surprised when we made it to the shelter before the storm hit. I write this from the comfort of the drafty, dirty shelter, but hey, we are dry! Tomorrow might be a different story though.
Night!
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